Since i have a 9′ garage ceiling and two 7′ door openings, when installing the doors i opted on behalf of one 8′ track to improve the tracks closer to the ceiling and out of the work area. This means the door has to go up a foot before it starts back, provided that traditional openers won’t work. For 20 yrs. I’ve been manually operating the door while now and then looking on behalf of one opener solution. The Liftmaster 3800 was the door answer, and the “laser parking assist” the spotting answer. (3″ bumper to door and 3″ grate to workbench, no more court tennis ball from the ceiling)
It’s been in service a week and works flawlessly. The quality of the operating unit, cable tension monitor, and hook appears very high. The resistance unit, remote, and light a little lesser provided that but seem adequate on behalf of the job.(few moving parts). The instructions are clarify and complete. And it comes with enough fasteners on behalf of most installations.
My installation was a little lengthly because i’m provided that picky. (ran a new outlet through the ceiling to get 4″ from the power unit, the car park aid comes with 8′ of bell wire, needed 20′ – further through the ceiling, the tension monitor needed a spacer block, cut one to fit and painted to match the finished and textured wall, and provided that on) the hook sole needs a 1/2″ hole instead of 3/4″ if you can jab accurately. If i did it further i wouldn’t install the hook. The door is insulated and very heavy, i don’t think schwarzenegger could steal it without the spring aid.
The sole dilemma i had ended up being a programming issue of my own making. After setting the open travel limit to the top of the chance – 7′, the door would open but not close. The order troubleshooting section indicated the trouble was the cable tension monitor. I reflection this not the dilemma since it’s curler was 2″ from the drum as recommended and it was under tension with the door open and closed. After 20 mins. Of reprogramming, checking connections and rereading instructions, staring at the monitor when closing diagnosed the dilemma. When the door starts down there is a jerk which slackens the cable on behalf of a fraction of a second allowing the tension monitor to close if the door is close to the top but not fully open. Reprogramming to 8′ pulls the cable away from the resistance a couple of inches provided that during the jerk the monitor movement is not enough to close. An extra foot of door travel, but it works great!
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